Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (2024)

Are you going to balayage hair for the first time and know nothing about this technique? Or already have it and want to try its new type? We’ve gathered everything you need to know about balayage, check!

Contents:

  1. Balayage Definition, Pronunciation, History
  2. Pros and Cons of Balayage
  3. How Long Does It Take to Balayage Hair?
  4. All Possible Types of Balayage
  5. Balayage vs. Ombre and Other Highlights:
  • Balayage vs. Highlights
  • Balayage vs. Ombre
  • Balayage vs. Other Techniques
  • What Balayage Will Suit You Best
  • Can You Balayage Hair at Home?
  • How to Choose a Good Balayage Master?
  • Balayage Price
  • How to Care for Balayage Hair
  • Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (1)

    @lisalovesbalayage

    What Is Balayage: Definition, Pronunciation, History

    First things first. Balayage was invented in 70’s. The word itself originates from the French word “balayer” meaning “to sweep”. BTW, this technique has only one name, BALAYAGE. All other terms — baylage, bayalage, biolage, etc. — are just misspellings. The right balayage pronunciation is /ˈbalɪjɑːʒ/.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (2)

    @premiereextensions

    So, the balayage is a hair dyeing technique, where a lightener or a color is “swept” through small triangle sections of hair by hand, traditionally with the help of a brush and a paddle board. This results in cute natural-looking highlights, lighter near the ends, and softer on top. Women often describe them as “sun-kissed” and “beachy”, so soft they are.

    The technique first appeared in Paris, and was called “Balayage à Coton”, as colorists used (and some still use) cotton stripes to isolate colored strands from the untouched ones.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (3)

    @biancacolour

    In the 90’s balayage became trendy in the USA, but only now this technique reaches its maximum popularity. At some salons almost 90% of dye jobs are different types of balayage! And this is why.

    Pros and Cons of Balayage

    The MAIN BENEFITS of modern balayage are:

    • individuality — colors are custom-blended, the width of lighter strands and their placement are chosen by the stylist to contour and frame your features properly (balayage is sometimes called a non-invasive ‘facelift’);
    • low-maintenance — roots are less noticeable when hair grows out, you’ll forget about monthly touch-ups (some women visit salon once per 6 months!);
    • universality — works for all ages, hair textures, base colors and hair lengths (except very short crops);
    • less damage — if compared to the all-over color, or techniques that use heat.

    Any disadvantages? Balayage doesn’t cover gray hairs. It just helps to blend them into the hairstyle. When it becomes impossible, you’ll have to make a root tint previous to balayage, and visit salon every 4-6 weeks for a root retouch to cover the grays. As you see, graying hair and balayage highlights are quite compatible, but monthly appointments with your colorist will be a must.

    How Long Does It Take to Balayage Hair?

    BALAYAGE TIMING depends on the style and depth of highlights, your hair type and the stylist’s skill level. Face-framing highlights may take 10-15 minutes, a full-head balayage — around 30-50 min, more complicated types of coloring — up to 3 hours (for example, if the colorist transforms foil highlights into balayage, he or she will need to fade out roots first).

    On average stylists book 2-2.5 hours if their client wants a cut plus balayage. Advice: choose a balayage-certified colorist, as speed comes with practice.

    Will you need just one salon visit to get your personalized balayage? To build a perfect blend of shades stylists recommend to have at least 3 color appointments each 6 weeks apart. Only then you will be able to skip touch-ups for 3-6 months.

    All Possible Types of Balayage

    The most common type of this technique is the full balayage, when all hair is highlighted.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (4)

    @bernardohairco

    Partial balayage is when highlights are applied only to specific areas instead of throughout the whole head.

    Subtle balayage is a soft balayage variation, the color is applied to the areas where it catches the light or where color would fade out naturally. The opposite to the high-contrast balayage.

    American balayage is a mix of the open-air technique and foiling. A stylist applies foil highlights and then paints the remaining hair between the foils. It is great for dark-haired women, and is used for a perfect face framing, or extending highlights closer to the scalp.

    Foilayage is one more adaptation of balayage, when a stylist wraps some of the freehand pieces in foils. A colorist paints your balayage first and then applies foil around balayaged pieces. The lighter tones melt seamlessly into the highlighted background.

    A trendy reverse balayage (inverted balayage) is created for blondes and brondes, and uses darker colors (browns, grays) at the ends. The result is something in-between balayage and ombre. Contrasting colors are used, so it is quite high-maintenance.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (5)

    @salonvipnewbury

    Babylights (micro-highlights) are very fine, subtle highlights. They have the most long-lasting effect among all balayage types without months of touch-ups. A minus: doing babylights is a very refined work, and it may take a ton of time.

    Read our other articles about different balayage types:

    • blonde balayage that suits all base hair shades;
    • the dream style of all dark-haired women — caramel balayage;
    • rose gold balayage for those who love fun colors;
    • the most creative purple balayage coloring;
    • cute balayage looks for short hair;
    • the best balayage highlights for brunettes;
    • definitions of hair strobing and smudging;
    • the balayage alternative for curls — pintura highlights.

    It is said that “balayage was created by the French, broadcasted by the Americans, and personalized by hairstylists around the world”. Really, modern colorists invent something new in the world of highlights every day. Don’t be surprised to hear about:

    • Californian balayage, a heavier variant of the classic balayage with lived-in roots, when more of the hair is colored;
    • glitterage — a process of styling when some strands are ‘balayaged’ with glitter;
    • stardust balayage — when the top layer is untouched and the bottom layer is highlighted;
    • palm-painting, a technique of applying balayage highlights without a brush;
    • spongelights, when a lightener is spread with a sponge, works great for textured hair;
    • splashlights that are painted only onto the middle of the strands;
    • fallayage that warms up the base color, doesn’t just lighten it;
    • ponytail lights for long locks, when balayage highlights are placed underneath the top layer of the hair, and show up beautifully if tied into a ponytail.

    Moreover, who said that highlights are for women only? Men’s balayage is also a thing now.

    Balayage vs. Ombre and Other Highlights

    A lot of women still confuse balayage with other coloring techniques and styles. Let’s sort out all the differences once and for all!

    Balayage vs. Highlights

    In general “highlights” are any strands of hair that are lighter than the base color, no matter how they are done. Lowlights are darker strands.

    Classic highlights usually have a defined stripy look and a more noticeable regrowth line. Most often foils, meshes (plastic latex strips with water-soluble adhesive seals), or a highlighting cap are used. Traditional highlights are made from roots to ends: they lift the roots, and the color is diffused towards the ends.

    Balayage is a highlighting TECHNIQUE. It results in well-blended vertical streaks that let glimpses of a darker shade throughout the length and even at the ends. The lighter pieces of balayage are placed strategically, some start higher and closer to the roots, others lower, and some brighten the ends. Also, it is a surface technique: a hair dye or a lightener is applied only on the top layer of each hair section, it is not saturated through strands (v.v. for curls). The roots are more diffused than the ends.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (7)

    @raylorojohair@hairby.ashleypac

    Balayage vs. Ombre

    On the contrary, ombre is NOT A TECHNIQUE. It is a LOOK. A darker shade gradually washes to a lighter shade, with no darker pieces at the ends of hair. Ombre is less customized than balayage, as the lighter shade is concentrated only from the mid-shaft to ends. The transition is usually well-defined and horizontal. Softer gradation is called sombre.

    The next confusing term is the ombre balayage. This is a ‘two-in-one’ mix of the ombre-ed style and a balayage technique. Generally speaking, it is a dark-to-light shading with balayage highlights on the mid-shaft and ends.

    We have recently published a more detailed description of balayage and ombre differences with illustrations, check.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (8)

    @maeipaint@constancerobbins

    Balayage vs. Other Techniques and Styles

    Fluid hair painting is the process of application a lightener/color with the client’s head leaned back against a table.

    Flamboyage is not “open-air”, it is created with transparent adhesive strips. The technique results in soft balayage-like or peek-a-boo highlights.

    Color melt is a coloring scheme, when a stylist places 3-4 shades along the hair shaft, and diffuses them together to get rid of the demarcation line.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (9)

    @arestov_dmitriy@mermicornhair@gina.devine

    What Balayage Will Suit You Best: Placement, Color, Style

    Balayage is a great face contouring technique. Stylists use lighter colors where more width is needed, darker ones for reducing it. Round and square faces benefit from lighter tones around the hairline. To soften the angles stylists often highlight hair at the jawline and temple areas. Long face shape like deeper darker roots, lighter streaks above the ears and at the ends. Heart faces look more balanced with dark roots, and balayage highlights under the jawline.

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (10)

    @styledbycarolyn

    If your base hair color is light, the best option for you will be blonde hues. If you have darker hair, consider brown, caramel, chocolate, and cinnamon highlights. For a bolder effect try colorful streaks. A lot depends on your skin tone and eye color. A good colorist will take all these factors into consideration.

    You are not a good candidate for balayage if you like power blonde roots: balayage is diffused in this area. Opt for this technique carefully if you have very dark brown or jet black hair. Find a really good balayage specialist.

    Can You Balayage Hair at Home?

    Balayage is not really something that you, being a non-pro or having zero experience in bleaching hair, can achieve at home. It’s really hard to ‘paint’ hair in sections on your own. However, if you want to make partial highlights, you may still try one of the professional balayage hair kits.

    Just be sure to:

    • use a color that is not more than 3 shades lighter to your base tone;
    • watch several tutorials how to balayage your own hair;
    • consult a hair colorist in case you have very dark or extremely damaged hair, and/or a lot of grays.

    If you want to refresh your highlights without the at-home coloring, try installing matching clip-in balayage hair extensions.

    How to Choose a Good Balayage Master

    Balayage is not as easy as it looks. A colorist has to know how to choose the right products and apply them, perfectly understand the process of saturation, what will suit a client and what post-care to recommend. It takes years to perfect balayaging skills, so:

    • look for a balayage-certified colorist
    • scrutinize the colorist’s portfolio (Instagram/Youtube accounts too)
    • schedule a consultation first, bringing balayage pictures you like
    • ask if he or she uses professional products (e.g. a non-bleeding clay lightener) and tools for balayaging
    • assess the stylist’s manner of communication, your feel of comfort, any bonuses given

    Balayage Price

    Prices vary depending on stylist’s skills and a lot of other factors from $50 to $350 and up. In general be ready to pay 20-35% more than for the standard foil highlights, as balayage is not something every stylist has been trained to do.

    Some stylists charge an additional fee for extra product used, longer hair length, toning and glazing, a finishing style, for educational advice on styling. Other colorists don’t like set prices at all, they charge only based on the time. On the contrary, there are still stylists that have the same price for any type of highlights, be they foils or ‘no foil’ streaks.

    How to Care for Balayage Hair

    Any hair coloring may dry out hair a bit. To maintain balayage together with your stylist you will need to develop a good conditioning strategy and choose high-quality products for colored locks. Be sure to use the best heat protectants during styling too.

    Rare touch-ups don’t mean you may completely forget about salon treatments. Balayage looks best on healthy hair. Specialists recommend scheduling monthly appointments to restore, nourish and tone your locks. For example, a toner is a need to get rid of brassiness, refresh the color and add shine to your locks.

    As you’ve understood, balayage is not just a trend, it is a very successful technique. Top stylists predict it will never go out of style. Finally decided to try it? Then read our next article with 70 best balayage hair color ideas to choose your variant!

    Balayage 101: The Fullest Guide to Balayage Hair (2024)

    FAQs

    What is the downside of balayage? ›

    Time-consuming: Balayage treatment takes time in a salon chair compared to traditional highlighting techniques. Limited color options: Balayage may not be suitable for those who want more dramatic or bold color changes. Cost: Balayage is more expensive compared to traditional highlighting techniques.

    What not to do before balayage? ›

    No, you should not wash your hair before a balayage treatment. You want to allow some natural oils to build up on your scalp and hair before the appointment. The oils soothe, moisturize, and protect your scalp. In addition, they help the balayage highlights to penetrate the hair shafts more effectively.

    Is balayage good for grey hair? ›

    Balayage is suitable for grey hair, as it works on all hair colours - but it won't cover grey hair. Balayage will only help the grey to blend in, allowing you to embrace and work with your grey hair. If you're looking for full grey coverage, balayage may not be the best choice for you.

    Which hair color is best for balayage? ›

    Some popular shades of balayage hair colors include classic blonde, caramel, honey blonde, ash blonde, rose gold, copper infusion, chocolate brown, bronde, oceanic blue, and vivid rainbow. Each shade offers a unique and stylish look.

    Is balayage very damaging to hair? ›

    One of the benefits of balayage is that it is generally less damaging than traditional foil highlights. This is because the color is painted onto the hair rather than being applied directly to the scalp, which can be more damaging to the hair.

    Is a balayage healthier than highlights? ›

    Is balayage healthier than highlights? Either coloring technique can be achieved with minimal damage when done by a seasoned pro, but balayage and ombre are generally more at risk of damage than highlights.

    What is the easiest color to maintain for balayage? ›

    Soft Caramel Balayage on Dark Brown Hair

    This low-maintenance coloring technique creates a natural-looking gradient effect, adding dimension and depth to the hair. The key to achieving a seamless look is to blend the soft caramel tones seamlessly into the dark brown base, creating a beautiful chocolate brown balayage.

    Should I wash my hair the night before getting a balayage? ›

    So, if you're planning to get a balayage, try to avoid washing your hair for at least 24 hours before your appointment. This will give your hair enough time to accumulate some natural oils and texture, allowing you to make the most of your balayage treatment.

    What hair color hides grey hair best? ›

    1. Blonde Highlights. There are three reasons we recommend blonde highlights Opens in a new tab when covering grays. First up, the difference between blonde and silver shades is subtle, so gray roots won't appear as visible - even if it's been six to eight weeks since you last went to the salon.

    How many hours does balayage take? ›

    A partial Balayage takes 45-90 minutes on average to complete. A full Balayage takes 1.5 – 3 hours on average to finish. Since the technique is applied by hand and no two Balayages are the same, the amount of time can vary greatly. Longer and thicker hair will take longer.

    What is reverse balayage? ›

    Reverse balayage—the addition of handpainted lowlights instead of highlights—is a low-maintenance, low-commitment way for blondes to add subtle darkness and depth to their hair. It's perfect for someone looking for a darker, more lived-in look without wanting to commit to a full-blown, all-over transformation.

    What makes balayage more expensive? ›

    When it comes to balayage, the style is heavily reliant on your hair's length and color. Longer and thicker hair requires more time and product, which ultimately can lead to a higher price point.

    Is balayage still in style in 2024? ›

    As we step into 2024, the world of hair fashion continues to evolve, and balayage remains at the forefront of hair color trends. Balayage, the French word for "sweeping," has taken the hair world by storm with its stunning, natural-looking results.

    What is a pearl balayage? ›

    Pearl balayage encapsulates all of this: It's easy to maintain, doesn't look too 'done' and grows out without giving way to a stark block of roots. It brightens and lightens but it's subtle — like you've been kissed by the sun — and it combines myriad tones, just like naturally lightened hair would.

    Does balayage require a lot of maintenance? ›

    How long does balayage last for? Because balayage highlights require less maintenance than traditional hair color, it's not necessary to go for touch-ups every month or 6 weeks. Depending on the style you go for, you can usually wait up to 4 months in between salon appointments.

    Should I get a balayage or not? ›

    If you're looking to lighten your hair but allow for natural growth between salon visits, then balayage may be right for you. It's also important to consider the health of your hair; obviously, lighteners can weaken hair strands, so if your hair is heavily damaged or breaking you may want to avoid any lighteners.

    What happens to balayage over time? ›

    One of the beauties of balayage is that it grows out subtly and naturally. But there will come a point when your highlights start to look brassy or grow too far down the hair shaft. Here are signs it's time for a refresh: Roots exceed 1 inch of new growth.

    Is balayage bad for fine hair? ›

    Balayage Does Minimal Damage

    With balayage, because the lightener or hair color is swept onto the surface of each section of hair, beginning further down the strand, and touchups are less frequent, your hair stays healthier overall.

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